Madrid, Spain — they call it tapas

In Madrid the tapa still arrives unasked: order a caña or a vermut de grifo and something lands beside it, and it gets better the more rounds you stay for. You drink standing, you throw the napkin on the floor in the old places, you pay at the end and walk to the next bar. The Basque counters work the other way — pintxos stacked on the bar, you take what you want and tell the barman how many sticks you had. Vermouth hour is noon to three, Sunday especially.