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The Kitchen

Bar food

Everything here is a real recipe with real temperatures. Nothing needs a restaurant kitchen — a pan, an oven, and something to drink while you wait.

1 showing · 444 plates · 15 drinks

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Lisbon, Portugal — they call it petiscos

Lisbon drinks in small glasses. You order an imperial, a 20cl draft that stays cold because it is small, and food arrives before you have decided anything. That is the couvert: bread, olives, sometimes cheese, and it is not free. Eat one olive and you pay for the tray; send it back untouched and nobody sulks. Petiscos come after, one plate at a time, pushed to the middle of the table. Tascas do lunch at one. Cervejarias run petiscos from six until the beer stops.

everything dips 63 fried 120 loaded 164 skewers 43 sliders 32 wings 14 sweet 8
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Piri-piri chicken wings

Asas de frango com piri-piri · Lisbon

The churrasqueira treatment applied to wings: chile, garlic, vinegar and olive oil, brushed on hot and again at the end. Portuguese piri-piri is sharp and thin, not sweet. If it tastes like barbecue sauce, you made it wrong.

45 min 4 picking ▲▲ easy
Make it

You need

  • 1.2kg chicken wings, split at the joint
  • 8 dried or fresh piri-piri (bird's eye) chiles
  • 6 garlic cloves
  • 1 tsp coarse salt
  • 120ml olive oil
  • 4 tbsp white wine vinegar
  • 1 tsp sweet paprika
  • 2 bay leaves, crumbled
  • 1 lemon
  • black pepper

Method

  1. Make the piri-piri: pound the chiles, garlic and salt to a paste, then whisk in the olive oil, vinegar, paprika, crumbled bay and a squeeze of lemon. It should be a loose, sharp, split sauce. Let it sit an hour.
  2. Set aside a third of the sauce in a separate covered bowl for finishing. Toss the wings in the rest and marinate 2-4 hours in the fridge.
  3. Heat the oven to 425F/220C. Arrange the wings on a rack over a sheet pan, skin up, in one layer.
  4. Roast 30-35 minutes, turning once, until the skin is browned and blistered and the thickest part reads 165F/74C on a thermometer.
  5. For char, finish 3-4 minutes under the broiler or 5 minutes over hot charcoal.
  6. Brush with the reserved sauce off the heat, add another squeeze of lemon, and serve with bread and cold beer.
  7. Substitution note: if you cannot find piri-piri chiles, Thai bird chiles are the closest in heat and shape. Cayenne powder is not.

Where you'd actually eat it: Churrasqueiras and beer halls all over the city; Bonjardim off Restauradores is the famous one, for whole birds. Wings are the counter portion, with an imperial and fries.

From behind the bar: Split the sauce before the chicken touches it. Anything that has been near raw chicken does not go on the finished plate.