BITCHLOVE

The Kitchen

Bar food

Everything here is a real recipe with real temperatures. Nothing needs a restaurant kitchen — a pan, an oven, and something to drink while you wait.

1 showing · 444 plates · 15 drinks

vegan 73 vegetarian 36
the house Bangkok 15 Bangkok 24 Istanbul 17 Istanbul 22 Lisbon 13 Lisbon 22 London 16 London 22 Madrid 16 Madrid 22 Mexico City 16 Mexico City 22 Milan 16 Milan 23 Paris 16 Paris 22 Seoul 18 Seoul 23 Tokyo 17 Tokyo 22

Milan, Italy — they call it stuzzichini

Turin invented the vermouth. Milan turned it into a schedule. Between six and nine the bars fill and a plate nobody ordered lands next to your Campari soda: olives, chips, cubed focaccia, mondeghili if the place is serious. On the Navigli the buffet version, apericena, is one price for the drink and a table you raid standing up. It is dinner pretending not to be dinner, and everyone keeps up the act.

everything dips 63 fried 120 loaded 164 skewers 43 sliders 32 wings 14 sweet 8
🍰

Almond and cornmeal crumble cake VEG

torta sbrisolona · Milan

Near-equal parts flour, cornmeal and sugar, bound with butter, yolk and almonds, baked into a shard you break with your hands. Mantuan. It exists to be dunked in grappa at the end of the night.

70 min 10 easy
Make it

You need

  • 1 cup / 130 g 00 flour
  • 1 cup / 150 g fine cornmeal
  • 3/4 cup / 150 g sugar
  • 5.5 oz / 160 g cold unsalted butter, cubed
  • 1 cup / 130 g almonds, half whole with skins, half coarsely chopped
  • 2 egg yolks
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • 1 tsp vanilla or a splash of grappa
  • Pinch of salt
  • Powdered sugar, to finish

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 350F / 175C and butter a 9 in / 23 cm springform or tart pan.
  2. Mix flour, cornmeal, sugar, salt, lemon zest and the almonds in a bowl.
  3. Rub in the cold butter with your fingertips until the mixture looks like coarse gravel — lumps are correct here, do not make a dough.
  4. Add the yolks and vanilla and toss with a fork just until the crumbs clump loosely. If it comes together into a ball, you overworked it.
  5. Tip the crumbs into the pan and level them without pressing. The texture depends on them staying loose and uneven.
  6. Bake 40 to 45 minutes until deep gold and firm at the edges. It will still feel soft in the middle; it sets as it cools.
  7. Cool completely in the pan, dust with powdered sugar, then break it apart by hand. Never cut it with a knife.

Where you'd actually eat it: The end of the meal at Lombard trattorie. It lands whole on the table, everyone breaks off a piece, and it goes into grappa or a glass of sweet wine.

From behind the bar: Keeps two weeks in a tin and gets better after three days. Cold butter, fingertips, no mixer.