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Everything here is a real recipe with real temperatures. Nothing needs a restaurant kitchen — a pan, an oven, and something to drink while you wait.

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Lisbon, Portugal — they call it petiscos

Lisbon drinks in small glasses. You order an imperial, a 20cl draft that stays cold because it is small, and food arrives before you have decided anything. That is the couvert: bread, olives, sometimes cheese, and it is not free. Eat one olive and you pay for the tray; send it back untouched and nobody sulks. Petiscos come after, one plate at a time, pushed to the middle of the table. Tascas do lunch at one. Cervejarias run petiscos from six until the beer stops.

everything dips 63 fried 120 loaded 164 skewers 43 sliders 32 wings 14 sweet 8
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Caramelized condensed milk mousse VEG

Baba de camelo · Lisbon

Camel drool. Condensed milk cooked to caramel and whipped into eggs until it holds a spoon upright. Two ingredients, one of them air. It sits in a glass bowl in the tasca fridge and outlives everyone.

240 min 6 fair
Make it

You need

  • 1 can (397g) sweetened condensed milk, or 400g ready-made doce de leite
  • 4 eggs, separated (pasteurized in-shell if you can get them)
  • pinch of salt
  • 1 tsp lemon juice
  • toasted flaked almonds or crushed Maria biscuits, optional

Method

  1. Caramelize the milk the safe way: pour it into a heatproof dish, cover with foil, sit the dish in a roasting tin of hot water and bake at 400F/200C for 60-90 minutes, stirring twice, until it is the color of dark honey. Cool completely.
  2. The traditional way is boiling the unopened can 2.5-3 hours. If you do that, keep it submerged under at least 5cm of water the entire time and top up as it evaporates. A can that boils dry can burst. Cool it fully in the can before opening.
  3. Beat the yolks into the cooled caramel until completely smooth. Cold caramel only; warm caramel scrambles the yolks.
  4. Whip the whites with the salt and lemon juice to firm peaks.
  5. Fold the whites into the caramel in three additions, cutting through and turning rather than stirring. Keep the air in.
  6. Chill at least 4 hours, covered. Serve cold in glasses with almonds or crushed biscuit on top.
  7. Safety note: the eggs stay raw. Use pasteurized eggs, keep it refrigerated, eat it within two days, and skip it entirely for pregnant, elderly, very young or immunocompromised eaters. Folding in 200ml whipped cream instead of the whites gives a denser, safer version, and it is not the real thing.

Where you'd actually eat it: The default tasca dessert, after the moelas and before the bica. A shot of bagaço with it, or a glass of moscatel de Setúbal.

From behind the bar: Cool the caramel to room temperature before the yolks go anywhere near it. Warm caramel scrambles them and no amount of whisking brings it back.